Hand Trades

There are several methods of oxidizing (also known as antiquing or artificially tarnishing) metal jewelry. In this article, I’ll discuss the general method of oxidizing, post-oxidization cleaning, and ongoing care of your sterling silver and copper jewelry. Other articles discuss methods of oxidization, mainly using Liver of Sulfur, hard boiled eggs, and heat.

Oxidizing (tarnishing) sterling silver or copper will add depth, color and interest to your workmanship. When you oxidize, you will low-light recessed areas, and beads that you’ve added to a wire worked object will “pop”. Coils, swirls and carvings will have better definition and the eye will be drawn to them.

Argentium silver, fine silver, gold, base metal and plated jewelry do not oxidize well, if at all. My methods are tried and true for sterling silver (includes Bali and Hill Tribe silver) and copper only.

In general, the steps to oxidize jewelry are simple: Use the oxidizing agent to change the color of the metal, clean the oxidizing agent from the metal, and then treat the metal using a tarnish remover, fine (0000) steel wool, or a tumbler. The final treatment is used to remove oxidization from exposed surfaces, leaving darker color in recesses.

Step One: Use the oxidizing agent to change the color. The methods I have used are Liver of Sulfur, hard boiled egg, and oven heat. While each has slightly different results, there are pros and cons for all of them. Try each method and decide which works best for you in different situations!

Step Two: Cleaning the oxidizing agent from the metal. Again, each method requires different cleaning processes, but in general, after the desired color is achieved, use clear water to fully clean the Liver of Sulfur or egg from your work.

Step Three: Final cleaning and treatment. I’ve used a natural tarnish remover paste from Sunshine Products to clean the excess tarnish from my pieces with great results. The recesses are left dark, and the surfaces are a rich gunmetal (silver) or pinky-brown (copper). I also usually toss completed pieces in the tumbler for anywhere from 30 minutes to overnight, allowing a final clean and shine, as well as hardening my wire work. Steel wool also works well for creating a nice burnished look on surfaces, but you must use a very fine grade (0000) and a firm but gentle approach. I don’t use steel wool often (I’m afraid of creating scratches!), but I’ve seen results from other artists that are very good.

After the piece has been treated to its final cleaning, care for it as you would any other piece of handcrafted jewelry. Store in a plastic bag away from air, sun, hairspray and all that nasty stuff that tends to dull jewelry surfaces. Clean regularly using the tarnish remover, jewelry cleaner, or pop in the tumbler for a short period of time. While I’ve found most of my oxidized jewelry doesn’t retarnish quickly, it will over time (especially if it’s left exposed to the elements!)

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