2mm 203

3mm 136

4mm 100

6mm 67

8mm 50

10mm 41

12mm 34

Let’s say you’ve purchased and pearl farm, and you get your mollusks together for a pep talk before they begin their task. You tell them you want natural pastel colors, white, exactly round. You say please make me some in the high diameters ( 10 to 14mm). Even after your pep talk, only about 10% will do what you have asked. This makes the white, and natural color, big ones, rare and more expensive.

Unlike salt water pearls, your guys refuse to accept big beads as the start of a pearl. You must use small inserts to start your pearls. The pearl will come out round, near round, potato, or baroque. They can vary greatly from near round to very lumpy potato. Looking closely at the internet photo will let you know about the shape (assumes dealer honesty ). This makes the round shape rarer, and more expensive.

Size does affect cost. See our measurement guide for how to size your pearls. On the internet you definitely need to know the millimeter size you will get. 5 1/2 to 6 ½ is about the size of a standard lead pencil. Price comparison of a dealer’s 6mm to another dealers 8mm would not be a valid comparison. Internet pictures often show a bigger look than the actual item. Get the mm size, compare it to something you own to know you’re getting the size you want. You see a lot of big pearls in freshwater, and shell pearls These are mostly 12 to 14 mm.

All natural pearls salt, or freshwater will have some blemish somewhere ( unless you’re paying several thousand). Freshwater pearls often show some banding. Bands usually are a luster difference in a narrow band around the pearl. Some baroque, and potato pearls show this more. The more pronounced the banding is the lower the cost. Internet buyers can check this out in your dealers photo long as the photo is of the one you are getting, or a close example of the one you are getting.

How are they strung. Traditional, most popular style is hand tied with silk thread, and a knot between each pearl. These are more expensive based on time required to do the stringing. A local Jeweler here charges $3 per inch to restring pearls you provide. Quality beading wire (we use only the highest quality 49 strand wire) with strong crimps gives a stronger, longer lasting method.
Synthetic (aramid is best) thread is stronger than silk. Knowing how they are strung helps with comparisons.

Natural Turquoise – turquoise that is so hard and beautiful that it is simply mined, cut, polished and set into a piece of jewelry or carved into a fetish or sculpture. Less than 3% of all the turquoise on the market worldwide is natural.

Stabilized Turquoise – soft or “chalk” turquoise has been infused with a clear epoxy resin. The resin, under pressure, absorbs into the rock, which permanently hardens the rock and deepens the color. Unlike the collectible natural turquoise which deepens in color over time by gradually absorbing oils from the skin as it is worn, the colors in stabilized turquoise are permanent. Most of the turquoise on the market is stabilized and should not cost as much as natural. Stabilized turquoise can be very beautiful, and is a good buy.

Treated Turquoise – soft or “chalk” turquoise that is stabilized as described above, except that the epoxy resin is also dyed. Colors in treated turquoise have a tendency to look artificial. Prices should be much less than natural or stabilized.

Reconstituted Turquoise – turquoise “chalk” that is lower grade and has been ground into powder, saturated with epoxy resin, dyed, and compressed into blocks or cakes to be cut into shapes for jewelry making. Prices should be most inexpensive.

Imitation Turquoise – there is no turquoise in this category. Either there are stones like Howlite (white stone, very porous) dyed to look like turquoise or there is pure plastic (epoxy resin) that has been dyed to look like turquoise. It is a shame that these materials are set in silver and priced as if they had intrinsic value.

•How to attach split rings using split ring pliers or split ring tweezers

•Are pliers better than tweezers?

•How to choose the right size split ring for your bracelet or chain

How to attach split rings using split ring pliers or tweezers

Using split rings to securely attach your sterling silver charms to your charm bracelet or necklace is a snap when you use split ring pliers or tweezers. With the right tools you will not damage your fingernails trying to open the rings and you will not have to watch the little buggers go flying across the room as they snap shut and try to escape.

Step One:

You will need a split ring, split ring pliers or tweezers, and the item you will attach to the split ring. Remove any jump ring from your charm so the split ring will be the only link between the charm and the bracelet.

Step Two:

Open the pliers and slide the split ring on the longer arm of the tool. As you close the tool, make sure the pointed (curved) arm comes down between the coils of the split ring to separate them. Once you have a grip on the split ring, you can slide it around toward the open end so you can add your charm or bracelet to the ring.

Step Three:

Slide the object that you are attaching to the split ring onto the open end. Hold the object in your fingers and use flat nose pliers or fingertips to slide the split ring around to the other side, until the object and ring dangle freely. (Just like putting a key on a keyring)

Step Four:

Repeat steps 2 and 3 to attach the charm to your bracelet or chain. Open the other side of the split ring and repeat the process to attach the item to a charm bracelet. Opening each side of the split ring will help keep it from stretching out and losing its shape.

The average 16″ strand will contain the following number of beads:

•4mm= approx. 100 beads
•5mm= approx. 80 beads
•6mm= approx. 67 beads
•7mm= approx. 57 beads
•8mm= approx. 50 beads
Because you may wish to include a mixture of sizes in the necklace or bracelet, it is important to know how to determine just how many beads of a given size will be required. It is fairly simple to figure out the number of beads needed for a length of finished strand and the easiest method it as follows:

1.one inch = 25.4 mm
2.multply 25.4 by the number of beads (excluding clasp) in the finished strand. for example: the strands will be 16″. 16″ x 25.4 mm = 406.4 mm
3.divide the total number of millimeters in the final length (in this case, 406.4mm) by the diameter of the beads to be used (let’s use 4mm), and the result wll be the number of beads. For example, 406.4mm (16″) divided by 4mm = 101.6 beads.
Remember when computing the length of the finished strand, to provide any findings such as clasps that will be included in the design, these will increase the length from 1/2″ to an inch or 1 1/2″ depending on your choices.

Threads, Findings and Equipment

While beads are the main ingredient of the necklace or bracelet, other materials, such as thread or wire and clasps are very important, additionally, there are a variety of tools that you will find extremely helpful, and a good working environment is essential.

The selection of threading materials varies as the beads themselves. String cord or wire is manufactured with a very tight twist that provides the material with strength and durability and is sometimes coated for additonal protection. Stringing thread or wire can be obtained on cards or spools. The most important qualities to look for when selecting thread or wire are the that the thread will pass through the smallest borehole of the beads, and that it is strong enough to support the weight of the finished bead.

The following describes which stringing material is best for various beads:

•pearls–silk thread
•beads with smooth drill holes–silk, polyester or nylon
•beads with abrasive holes–polyester or nylons
•beads with metallic, large or large bore drill holes –tigertail or foxtail
•ropes or woven necklaces–nylon
Findings: the term ‘ findings’ is used throughout the jewelry industry to collectively describe a variety of prefabricated items such as, jumprings, bead tips, headpins, clasps. These items are useful and necessary for the ease and comfort of the wearer in putting on and removing, they provide the means of connecting strands and they add a touch of quality to your design.

•Headpins: the headpin is a length of wire with a flat at one end. It is used to string a bead, or several beads, then connect them to the strand by making a loop at one end.
•Clasps: Clasps do just that–clasp strands together. As with the bead they are connecting. Clasps come in a variety of shapes and styles. Some connect both ends of a single strand, some connect several strands, individually, while others accomodate a wide range of several strands together. Clasps can be simple or very ornate. Some are made so that they are not seen as a clasp, but part of the overall design.
Tools & Equipment

•Pliers: a pair of pliers is a must for closing bead tips, opening and closing jumprings and it can be used to help tighten knots. Chain nose pliers are the most practical kind to use, because the outside of the nose is rounded, while the inside is flat or gripping, the tip of the plier should be long and narrow.
•Ruler: a 24″ ruler, marked in millimeter’s as well, will be necessary to keep track of the length of the strand on which you are working.
•Scissors: scissors are another must in your jewelry making tool kit, especially if working with thread. The best kind are not too large and they must be very sharp.
•Glue: you will need fast-drying type of cement that the jeweler’s use.
•Beading Boards are optional but are great to keep your area organized. These resemble trays and enable you to layout your designs without having beads rolling all over the floor. Some have compartments to hold the beads you are currently working with, and some have a pre-measured layout to help determine the length of the desired necklace or bracelet.
The importance of a good working environment cannot be stressed enough–the successful completion of a project, with comfort will depend on how well you have selected your beading niche. The ideal space will be well-lit and contain a sizeable work surface to provide enough room for all beading materials and equipment. Beads bounce, roll and slither, therefore, your work surface should be a non-stick variety. Felt, velvet or a scrap of carpet, or a towel. Any of these are suitable and will prevent any untimely bead escapes, resulting in frustrating searches on your hands and knees.

The overall size of the work area is important too! It is amazing how much room is needed for containing beads,threading materials and supplies.

•Useful guide for selecting the right wire for your beading projects:
.10″–Excellent for beading weaving, Peyote stitch, and small seed beads

.012″/.013″– Great for Austrian crystals, seed beads and freshwater pearls

015″/018″– Most versatile size available–use with heavy beads, metal, ceramic and fiber optic beads

.020″/.021″– Use with metal, large or heavy beads with medium to large drilled holes. Such as garnet, crystal & glass

0.21″/.026″–Terrific for metal, large or heavy bead with large drilled holes such as African Trade beads.

Beads are usually pooh-poohed by fine designers since they are usually cut from the lowest-grade materials. To understand why, it’s important to understand how gemstones are cut for jewelry.

First – where do gemstones come from ? They are cut from rough material that is formed in one of three ways:

Igneous – formed as magma cools. Magma is the molten rock and crystals that lay beneath the surface of the earth. Lava flowing from a volcano is magma – known as extrusive igneous rock. The lovely gemstone aquamarine is a result of extrusive igneous formation. So are ruby, peridot, moonstone and peridot.

Sedimentary – think of the Grand Canyon to understand the sedimentary process. Sedimentary gemstones are formed by wear and tear through the effects of weather and erosion. For example, color shifting opal forms in holes created in rocks that have cracked because of erosion. Turquoise, malachite and amethyst are other gemstones formed through the sedimentary process.

Metamorphic – These gemstones are formed by heat and pressure. Lapis lazuli, jade and also ruby is formed through the metamorphic process.
How Gemstones are Cut

Think about cutting a pattern out of material to make clothes or crafts. The pattern pieces are laid on the material using the material in the correct way. For example, cutting the material on the bias to create a fitted effect or placing the pattern pieces to match strips or plaids in the fabric.

The same basic theory is used when cutting gemstones. The raw material is examined and the gemcutter also known as a lapidarist, cuts the rough material to its best effect, both for appearance and strength-wise. This is quite an art as one mistake with the saw or grinder can ruin an expensive gemstone.

Turning the Leftover Raw Material into Beads

Beads are cut from the left over pieces of the raw material. Just as a seamstress might use the leftover material from the pattern cutting to make a doll’s dress or a coordinating purse, the lapidarist uses all parts of the rough material to maximize profit on the cost of the raw material.

The higher the number, the smaller the bead.

We’ve converted aughts to millimeters, large to small:

1 /0= 6.5mm
2 /0= 6.0mm
3 /0= 5.5mm (pony beads, crow, roller)
4 /0= 5.0mm
5 /0= 4.5mm
6 /0= 4.0mm (popular “e” bead)
7 /0= 3.4mm
8 /0= 3.1mm
9 /0= 2.7mm
10 /0= 2.3mm
11 /0= 2.1mm
12 /0= 1.9mm
13 /0= 1.7mm
14 /0= 1.6mm
15 /0= 1.5mm
16 /0= 1.3mm
17 /0= 1.2mm
18 /0=1.1mm
20 /0=1.0mm

3/0 beads would be 4 per inch,
about 1/4 inch thick each.
(Crow rollers, pony beads)

6/0 beads would be about 8 per inch,
or 1/8 inch thick each.
(The popular “e” bead)

15/0 beads would be 18 per inch,
1/18 inch thick each. (Tiny)

Bead Size (mm) ~ amount needed for 8″ (large wrist ) bracelet
2mm 100
3mm 65
4mm 50
6mm 33
8mm 25
10mm 20
12mm 17

Use these numbers to calculate your bead needs:
For a 8″ bracelet (large wrist), using 10mm beads,
you will need 20 beads. You will need LESS if you’re also adding spacers or other accents.

How many beads in a 16″ strand?

2mm 200
3mm 130
4mm 100
6mm 65
8mm 50
10mm 40
12mm 34

6mm is about 1/4 inch.
12mm is about a 1/2 inch.
18mm is dime size.

2. How many beads are in a 16″ strand?

4mm
100 beads per 16″ strand

6mm
65 beads per 16″ strand

8mm
50 beads per 16″ strand

10mm
40 beads per 16″ strand

12mm
32 beads per 16″ strand

14mm
28 beads per 16″ strand