To calculate your ring size:

1. Wrap a piece of string around
   the base of your finger.

2. Mark the overlap point, and
   measure the length from start to overlap.

3. Select the appropriate ring size based
   on the length calculated.

•How to attach split rings using split ring pliers or split ring tweezers

•Are pliers better than tweezers?

•How to choose the right size split ring for your bracelet or chain

How to attach split rings using split ring pliers or tweezers

Using split rings to securely attach your sterling silver charms to your charm bracelet or necklace is a snap when you use split ring pliers or tweezers. With the right tools you will not damage your fingernails trying to open the rings and you will not have to watch the little buggers go flying across the room as they snap shut and try to escape.

Step One:

You will need a split ring, split ring pliers or tweezers, and the item you will attach to the split ring. Remove any jump ring from your charm so the split ring will be the only link between the charm and the bracelet.

Step Two:

Open the pliers and slide the split ring on the longer arm of the tool. As you close the tool, make sure the pointed (curved) arm comes down between the coils of the split ring to separate them. Once you have a grip on the split ring, you can slide it around toward the open end so you can add your charm or bracelet to the ring.

Step Three:

Slide the object that you are attaching to the split ring onto the open end. Hold the object in your fingers and use flat nose pliers or fingertips to slide the split ring around to the other side, until the object and ring dangle freely. (Just like putting a key on a keyring)

Step Four:

Repeat steps 2 and 3 to attach the charm to your bracelet or chain. Open the other side of the split ring and repeat the process to attach the item to a charm bracelet. Opening each side of the split ring will help keep it from stretching out and losing its shape.

If your bead necklace has problems, don’t toss it and don’t pull out the sewing thread to jerry-rig it back together. With a few basic tools and easily obtained supplies you can restring your necklace, making it stronger than before.

Step by step restringing:

Step One:

Clean your beads. Body oils, cosmetics, and time can dull crystals and make the beads look cruddy. There are many good guides on ebay about cleaning vintage jewelry. My rule is, use the gentlest methods to start, such as Connoisseurs Delicate Jewelry Cleaner and a baby’s first toothbrush. Glass and crystal will stand up to vigorous cleaning. Be very careful with simulated pearls and plastics. Test first on a single bead to make certain you won’t harm the finish.

Step Two: Gather your supplies.

1.Stringing material. The best are nylon coated cable beading strands. These come in different weights, strengths and colors. Recommended brands are Soft Flex, Acculon or Beadalon. They come on spools and are readily available at bead stores and hobby and craft stores. DO NOT use thread since it will fray or break.

2.Chainnose pliers and cutters. Many craft suppliers have small kits with inexpensive pliers and cutters that are suitable for occasional jewelry repair. A good tool for jewelry repair is a crimping tool (the black tool in the picture), but that is optional.

3.Bead tips. These have a clam-shell or a cup to hold a stop bead and a hook to attach it to the clasp.

4.Crimp beads. Soft metal beads with large holes that are mashed against the stringing material to hold it.

5.Glass seed beads. If you need to lengthen your necklace, use glass seed beads as spacers. They come in all colors and finishes to match your beads.

6.A beading board or mat for a work surface. I use a Vellux pad. A flocked beading board with channels is excellent for keeping your beads and supplies organized. Any cloth with a nap will work to keep your beads from rolling off the table.

Step Three:

Take the necklace apart. This is the scary part for many, but if you work slowly and use either a beading board or napped pad, you can keep the beads under control.

1.Most strands are finished with bead tips that attach to the clasps and/or extender chains. Use the chainnose pliers to open the loop on the bead tips and unhook them from the clasp ends. Set the clasps and/or chains aside.

2.Lay out the strand on the mat or in a beading board channel and clip one end of the string.

3.Keeping the beads in order, remove them from the string.

Step four: String the beads.

1.This type of beading material does not require a needle. It is stiff enough to slide through the bead holes.

2.Work off the spool and don’t put any tension on the string as that might cause warps or kinks.

3.If lengthening the necklace, string a seed bead between each of the original beads.

4.When all the beads are strung, lay out the strand and double-check to make sure the pattern is correct and all the beads are where you want them.

Step Five: Crimp the ends of the strand and attach the clasp.

1.On the working end of the string (which is beaded and still attached to the spool) string on a crimp bead, a bead tip and a seed bead.

2.Pass back through the hole in the bead tip, leaving the seed bead to catch inside, and pass back through the crimp. Work gently here to keep from kinking the string.

3.Snug the seed bead inside the bead tip and snug the crimp bead up against the bead tip.

4.With the pliers gently mash the crimp bead against the stringing material.

5.For added hold, put a drop of glue or nail polish inside the bead tip before closing it over the seed bead.

6.Slide a bead over the tail of the stringing material, then clip the string close to the bead so the tail is tucked inside. Be careful not to clip your strand string!

7.On the other end, clip the string material from the spool, leaving about a two inch tail. Hold the strand up so the beads settle naturally on the string without being so tight they warp or so loose there is exposed stringing material.

8.Repeat the finishing steps on this end.

9.If you use clam-shell type bead tips, close them over the seed beads.

10.Hook the bead tips onto the clasp and use the pliers to close the loops.

First, buy your bracelet in a size that is close to your wrist size so that the adjustment you need to make is small. To measure your wrist, use a measuring tape (the ones used for sewing work fine), or use a piece of string or strip of paper.

Wrap the tape around the narrow part of your wrist and then measure the length.

Most Sterling Silver cuff bracelets can be adjusted 1/2 inch one way or the other, use this measurement as a guide when purchasing your jewelry.

When you receive your bracelet, you will want to adjust it to fit your wrist so that it does not have to be done again every time you wear it.

Carefully open your bracelet, by very gently but firmly pulling the two ends apart, so that it fits over your wrist from the side.

Place the open part of the bracelet at the side of the narrow part of your wrist, moving far enough to be able to turn it into the correct position.

When the bracelet is placed as you want to wear it, gently squeeze it just enough to fit comfortably, and so that it can still be removed by reversing the process.

Navajo Bracelet

The next time you put it on, it will fit perfectly without adjustment!

Over time, Sterling Silver that has been repeatedly stretched and compressed will stress, and may form a crack or weakened area that can limit the life ot the bracelet. Using this method, your Sterling Silver Bracelet will fit every time you wear it, and it may last a lifetime or more.

My Favorite Wire Wrapped Jewelry Cleaner

Dish Soap! I have bought many different types of jewelry cleaner & find my bottle of Dawn dish soap is my favorite. It does a great job (on the jewelry & the dishes)! It’s safe on most gemstones, pearls and clay. It’s gentler on your skin. I’ll discuss a few commercial cleaners below.

My favorite Wire Jewelry Cleaning Tools

A SOFT toothbrush, an artists paint brush, a cotton-flannel cloth, & a polishing cloth. I have also started using Q-Tips in place ofthe artist’s paintbrush–they work quite well on delicate items!

•Cover the drain, in case you drop your jewelry.
•Run luke-warm water at a gentle stream.
•Rub soap on the stone with your fingers or soft artist paint brush, I do NOT recommend brushing gems unless you know they are hard and can tolerate brushing…many stones can NOT be brushed.
• Use the artists paintbrush (or Qtip) on the entire piece of jewelry if it has fine gauge wire or has delicate designs or stones—to avoid bending, scratching, or damaging the wire or gemstone.
•Use the toothbrush or paintbrush to brush soap on GENTLY on the wire, taking care not to catch the bristles between the wires. Moving the brush perpendicular to the direction of the wires helps avoid snagging bristles between them.
•Rinse thoroughly with water and pat dry with paper towel or a non-snagging cotton cloth.
•Once the jewelry has thoroughly dried, you can buff it gently with a polishing cloth.
•HINT- If tarnish is stubborn, I brush the soap on, let it sit for 5-10 minutes and rinse with water.
•HINT- I DO NOT RECOMMEND TOOTHPASTE! IT IS ABRASIVE AND DIFFICULT TO CLEAN OFF WIRE WRAPPED JEWELRY!

About Liquid Commercial Jewelry Cleaners…

There are 3 main types of liquid jewelry cleaner readily available in the store…Silver Cleaner, General Purpose Jewelry Cleaner, & Delicate Jewelry Cleaner….

•Delicate Jewelry Cleaner or Pearl Cleaner-The safest bet of the 3 types of liquid cleaner for any gemstone jewelry. I think most of these are diluted soap, but they work without damaging most gems.
•General Purpose Jewelry Cleaner- This is a general purpose jewelry cleaner to use with caution—many stones cannot tolerate this jewelry cleaner, most contain Ammonia. Ammonia is acidic and can pit or damage many gemstones.
•Silver Cleaner- I do NOT recommend using silver cleaner on any jewelry containing gemstones or pieces that are not solid sterling silver! It is a very harsh acidic cleaner! I almost never use silver cleaner; I basically use it as a last resort on OLD sterling silver chains needing serious cleaning.

Soft or Delicate Gemstones
Below is a list of gemstones I suggest you use only SOAP & WATER and NO HARSH BRUSHING to clean them! This list is not absolute… I’m sure there are more stones out there that I have not worked with or even heard of. This list should still be quite helpful to many of you who are not sure.

Amber (do not soak, just wet to clean & dry thoroughly)
Aquamarine
Charoite
Chrysocolla
Chrysoprase
Dyed or Treated Gemstones
Emerald
Eudialyte
Fluorite
Hemimorphite
Inlay Jewelry
Kunzite
Kyanite
Lapis Lazuli
Malachite
Opals (some may not be washed at all-they can lose their fire, use caution)
Pearls
Polymer Clay
Selenite
Seraphinite
Shell Cameo
Shell,Ivory,Bone,Horn,Coral
Sodalite
Sugilite
Tanzanite
Tourmaline
Turquoise

This will help New users learn how to use the Clay Push molds and hopefully some tips for the experianced users.

1.What are Push Molds?

Castings made with Polymer clay of many diffrent detailed impressions,that can be used to make your own creative designs that allow even the very begginner to make pieces that look like it took you hours to make.

2.How do I prevent the clay from sticking to the mold?

Always lightly dust the mold with Baby Powder before making impression. If it does get stuck,try putting the mold with the clay in it into the freezer for 2-3 minutes to help its release.

Over time Lots of use, the mold may develop a sticky residue,You can clean them by using rubbing alcohol.

3.How do I start making the designs and removing clay from the molds?

Always use softened clay..Can softened by hand or use a Pasta Machine to soften and condition clay.

Clay should feel like smooth Firm Putty

If you are using a deep mold ,form your clay into a sharp point or teardrop and press the point of the clay into the deepest part of the mold first then fill the mold from the center out.

I reccomend filling all molds from the center to the outter edge.

Fill enough to edges to have someting to hold onto to pull clay out of mold.Use a Sharp craft knife to trim off any excess.

DEEPER IMPRESSIONS SHOULD BE LIFTED STRAIGHT UP TO PREVENT DISTORTION.YOU CAN LEAVE EXCESS CLAY ON THE BACKSIDE TO USE AS A HANDLE,LET IT REST FOR 10-15 TO FIRM UP A BIT,THEN TRIM OFF ACCESS WITH A SHARP CRAFT KNIFE.

After molding use a soft brush to remove excess powder.

4.Time to bake

Bake pieces according to Clay Manufacturers instructions.

You can use Colored Clay or White Clay for your projects..There are many diffrent types of paints and powders you can use on the finished baked pieces.

I will add more info as I get it about various aspects of using the clay.There are also many books available at your local craft stores.

I hope this Basic Guide has been of some help to you..

Please feel free to ask any further questions you may have..

Good Luck and most of all have FUN!

The average 16″ strand will contain the following number of beads:

•4mm= approx. 100 beads
•5mm= approx. 80 beads
•6mm= approx. 67 beads
•7mm= approx. 57 beads
•8mm= approx. 50 beads
Because you may wish to include a mixture of sizes in the necklace or bracelet, it is important to know how to determine just how many beads of a given size will be required. It is fairly simple to figure out the number of beads needed for a length of finished strand and the easiest method it as follows:

1.one inch = 25.4 mm
2.multply 25.4 by the number of beads (excluding clasp) in the finished strand. for example: the strands will be 16″. 16″ x 25.4 mm = 406.4 mm
3.divide the total number of millimeters in the final length (in this case, 406.4mm) by the diameter of the beads to be used (let’s use 4mm), and the result wll be the number of beads. For example, 406.4mm (16″) divided by 4mm = 101.6 beads.
Remember when computing the length of the finished strand, to provide any findings such as clasps that will be included in the design, these will increase the length from 1/2″ to an inch or 1 1/2″ depending on your choices.

Threads, Findings and Equipment

While beads are the main ingredient of the necklace or bracelet, other materials, such as thread or wire and clasps are very important, additionally, there are a variety of tools that you will find extremely helpful, and a good working environment is essential.

The selection of threading materials varies as the beads themselves. String cord or wire is manufactured with a very tight twist that provides the material with strength and durability and is sometimes coated for additonal protection. Stringing thread or wire can be obtained on cards or spools. The most important qualities to look for when selecting thread or wire are the that the thread will pass through the smallest borehole of the beads, and that it is strong enough to support the weight of the finished bead.

The following describes which stringing material is best for various beads:

•pearls–silk thread
•beads with smooth drill holes–silk, polyester or nylon
•beads with abrasive holes–polyester or nylons
•beads with metallic, large or large bore drill holes –tigertail or foxtail
•ropes or woven necklaces–nylon
Findings: the term ‘ findings’ is used throughout the jewelry industry to collectively describe a variety of prefabricated items such as, jumprings, bead tips, headpins, clasps. These items are useful and necessary for the ease and comfort of the wearer in putting on and removing, they provide the means of connecting strands and they add a touch of quality to your design.

•Headpins: the headpin is a length of wire with a flat at one end. It is used to string a bead, or several beads, then connect them to the strand by making a loop at one end.
•Clasps: Clasps do just that–clasp strands together. As with the bead they are connecting. Clasps come in a variety of shapes and styles. Some connect both ends of a single strand, some connect several strands, individually, while others accomodate a wide range of several strands together. Clasps can be simple or very ornate. Some are made so that they are not seen as a clasp, but part of the overall design.
Tools & Equipment

•Pliers: a pair of pliers is a must for closing bead tips, opening and closing jumprings and it can be used to help tighten knots. Chain nose pliers are the most practical kind to use, because the outside of the nose is rounded, while the inside is flat or gripping, the tip of the plier should be long and narrow.
•Ruler: a 24″ ruler, marked in millimeter’s as well, will be necessary to keep track of the length of the strand on which you are working.
•Scissors: scissors are another must in your jewelry making tool kit, especially if working with thread. The best kind are not too large and they must be very sharp.
•Glue: you will need fast-drying type of cement that the jeweler’s use.
•Beading Boards are optional but are great to keep your area organized. These resemble trays and enable you to layout your designs without having beads rolling all over the floor. Some have compartments to hold the beads you are currently working with, and some have a pre-measured layout to help determine the length of the desired necklace or bracelet.
The importance of a good working environment cannot be stressed enough–the successful completion of a project, with comfort will depend on how well you have selected your beading niche. The ideal space will be well-lit and contain a sizeable work surface to provide enough room for all beading materials and equipment. Beads bounce, roll and slither, therefore, your work surface should be a non-stick variety. Felt, velvet or a scrap of carpet, or a towel. Any of these are suitable and will prevent any untimely bead escapes, resulting in frustrating searches on your hands and knees.

The overall size of the work area is important too! It is amazing how much room is needed for containing beads,threading materials and supplies.

•Useful guide for selecting the right wire for your beading projects:
.10″–Excellent for beading weaving, Peyote stitch, and small seed beads

.012″/.013″– Great for Austrian crystals, seed beads and freshwater pearls

015″/018″– Most versatile size available–use with heavy beads, metal, ceramic and fiber optic beads

.020″/.021″– Use with metal, large or heavy beads with medium to large drilled holes. Such as garnet, crystal & glass

0.21″/.026″–Terrific for metal, large or heavy bead with large drilled holes such as African Trade beads.

Please note that the acid will stain your skin or worse, so be careful not to spill any on yourself and don’t even think of getting any in your eyes.

Gold:
There are 9kt, 14kt, 18kt and 22k testing acids.
The process is simple, scratch or rub the metal (jewelry) onto the testing stone. Try to do it in a spot that won’t be noticeable.
Place app half a drop of the closest acid to the karat you estimate the metal to be. Mostly I like to start with 14kt and move up or down.

•If the acid dissolves the metal it’s less then the karats on the bottle and you should try again with lower level acid.
•If it dissolves the metal slowly, it’s possible you would have a bit less then the karat of the acid in the bottle.
•If the metal stays it’s most likely the karat of the acid in the bottle.

Platinum
Should stay and not dissolve under the platinum acid. Some platinum is 800 type of platinum and will dissolve a bit.

Silver:
Rub extra metal onto the stone, apply a nice drop and wait for a reaction.

•0.999 pure silver will turn bright red color
•0.925 sterling silver will turn dark red color
•0.800 silver will turn brown color
•0.500 silver will turn green